| Posted: Sunday Jan 4th, 2015 02:29 pm |
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1st Post |
juwi_uk
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I see the RLY01H now supports 230v.
Couple of questions/thoughts:
- The picture in the manual looks wrong? Or at least different to the one on the laser website which suggests board must be rev "B".
- I notice the JP1 - 4 are the standard blue pcb terminals used for about everything in the Cytech world. I assume then that these must be rated to 230v as well then but it feels a bit wrong putting 230v (something that can kill you) into these small terminal blocks that just push onto the PCB pins. Have you considered maybe more chunkier terminal blocks that are more securely attached to the PCB. My worry is that mains cable is stiffer and can apply directional forces and these terminal blocks could move off of their pins and cause arcing?
- Could you maybe add some sort of shielding/housing (and warning sticker) over this section of the board if you are proposing this relay is mounted on the normal risers in the chassis so people know to avoid high voltage.
Julian
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| Posted: Sunday Jan 4th, 2015 02:35 pm |
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2nd Post |
juwi_uk
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And another thought...
Maybe provide an SKU for this PCB already mounted in a junction box rated to IP65 so can be used inside or outside.
If I use these I want to screw them to a joist near to the devices being switched so already packaging them up ready for consumers like me to use would be much more attractive sell.
Julian
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| Posted: Tuesday Jan 6th, 2015 04:04 pm |
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3rd Post |
slychiu
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The terminal block is actually quite difficult to remove from the header. If the terminal block does come off, the user is not exposed to 230V as the incoming voltage would be on the pluggable part and not on the exposed header pins. if the screws are tight they are recessed so your fingers would not come into contact
The danger would arise if the 230V incoming voltage were not screwed in tightly to the terminal block but that would be a danger no matter what connector is used
But we may change to another type of connector in the future just to distinguish from the blue connectors
A red sticker marked 230V is a good idea, in fact we already have them
Mounting on a "SKU". Not sure whta is an SKU I assume a polycarbonate box but these do not have the correct mounting holes that the standard modules 108 x 88 mm can sit
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| Posted: Tuesday Jan 6th, 2015 06:48 pm |
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4th Post |
| Posted: Tuesday Jan 6th, 2015 06:50 pm |
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5th Post |
juwi_uk
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The point im trying to make is to position the boxes close to the mains device rather than run mains cable back to the comfort location. Hence mounting in a nice surface mounted box.
Last edited on Thursday Jan 8th, 2015 01:18 am by juwi_uk
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| Posted: Sunday Feb 22nd, 2015 01:00 pm |
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6th Post |
Swiss-Toni
UCM Pi Users
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I like the idea of moving this outside of the comfort panel box as I always find it a pain to run twin & earth cabling into a confined space and also removing more 230v away from the panel.
You can get IP rated boxes from shops like Maplins or online and fit the relays in them.
I must say you have given me a lot of food for thought in the locatiing of these relays outside of the panel. I personally doubt I would place these externaly so the requirements for highly rated IP (water/dust proof IP65 uk) boxes is unnecessary. Also I know you mentioned surface mounted but I prefer dropping them under floors ect (out of sight and no visible cabling.
On a moot point I bought one of these new relays and cannot distinguish it from the older ones as it still has the same markings as the older ones, just as well I did not use it for 230V.....
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| Posted: Sunday Feb 22nd, 2015 01:08 pm |
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7th Post |
juwi_uk
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Hi Swiss
Yes I mentioned surface mounted boxes but I meant so they could be screwed to joists underneath the floor or in the roof space too so we are thinking alike.
I too have lots of sensors mounted inside and outside using the good-Ol' Maplin boxes!
Ju
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| Posted: Sunday Feb 22nd, 2015 01:17 pm |
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8th Post |
Swiss-Toni
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Also I Note that Slychiu referenced mounting holes not being correct Hmmm a drill a template with holes and stand offs, will more than remedy that 
(My only gripe is, I wish I had thought of your idea a couple of years ago lol)
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| Posted: Monday Mar 23rd, 2015 06:13 pm |
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9th Post |
Swiss-Toni
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Is their a way of telling which RLY01 is the older version and which is the newer version as I have a spare one and when I bought one from Laser.com it states that I bought the 230V one but I cannot tell which is which (can this be checked by a code or serial number)
On each of the black boxes (relays) it states 16A 250V but this is what it says on all the other RLY01 I have bought.
P028157
C021652
P028096
C018400
P028159
C021643
They all state
16A250V~
16A277VAC
Spule 12V (switching voltage)
Last edited on Monday Mar 23rd, 2015 07:49 pm by Swiss-Toni
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| Posted: Monday Mar 23rd, 2015 07:49 pm |
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10th Post |
Swiss-Toni
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Would I be right in presuming that they are all capable of handling 16amps and up to 250V AC and that I actually have just purchased the newer versions without realizing it.
Their is no mention on any of them saying anything about 30V 2A that I can see
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| Posted: Tuesday Mar 24th, 2015 08:16 am |
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11th Post |
slychiu
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The relays are rated for 230V 16A for the RLY01 and RLY01H
It is the PCB that is different. The RLY01H PCB has more spacing between the tracks for 230V and the PCB copper is thicker to handle the higher current
The RLY01H was introduced only in mid 2014
The 2 versions are shown in the attached photo.
The marking RLY01B is the 230V version
The introduction of the RLY01H was not handled well by us for which we apologise
Attachment: RLY01diff(small).jpg (Downloaded 36 times)
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| Posted: Tuesday Mar 24th, 2015 12:26 pm |
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12th Post |
Swiss-Toni
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No need for apologies, it is perfectly clear to me & it appears mine are all the lower voltage type. I did read that you may consider changing the connectors (the blue blocks). I prefer the ones we are currently using at it makes it easier to manipulate rather than having to pull the whole board out to screw wires in, the red dot idea in my opinion would suffice....
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