| Posted: Saturday Nov 2nd, 2013 08:04 pm |
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1st Post |
Stub
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Not strictly Comfort related but here goes anyway.
At the moment I'm using a UCM/Ulti with a few Ulti switches. These work well enough though among the units I have in use there is one that is slightly intermittent, one that will not switch off, and one that turns itself back on again when told to toggle off! The rest work fine. So I'm thinking I want to try Zwave 2-way for increased reliability.
I've been reviewing some of the light switches available so I can get a sample in and get my Comfort installer to fit me a UCM/Zwave. My concern is more at the light switch end though, in that I have 2-wire light switches in my ~40yr old home. I think this means I have Live & Load but no Neutral.
The Vitrum I BS wiring diagram is shown below. I think this means Live, Neutral, Normally Open and 'C' for Closed maybe? Bit uneducated here but the requirement for Neutral appears to be a showstopper.
Same thing with the MK Astral products.
The "if required" seems to relate to the load types and I'm assuming my household energy saving bulbs are classed as "Compact Fluorescent (low energy) lamps":
Suitable for use with the following load types and maximum load ratings only.
Load Type Maximum Load GLS 25-2400W Tungsten filament 25-2400W Tungsten halogen 25-2000W Fluorescent Tubes with ferro-magnetic ballast and
power factor correction 18-1800W Maximum load capacitance 1 4 0 µ F Fluorescent tubes with electronicballast* 18-540W Compact Fluorescent (low energy) lamps* 25-750W ELV Tungsten halogen ferro-magnetic or electronic
transformers* 25-1500VA *Requires Neutral connection to switch
Has anybody found some 2-wire Zwave light switch products or is this a showstopper for Comfort and Zwave lights for me?
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| Posted: Saturday Nov 2nd, 2013 11:00 pm |
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2nd Post |
juwi_uk
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Hi Stub
I don't want to be the bearer of bad news here but some of the issues you get with your UCM/Ulti I also get with my UCM/ZWave3 too; lights not wanting to turn off (CFL's) and some turning themselves back on again after you switch off.
On my setup it appears my old ACT switches are more prone to this as don't seem to get with the Fibraro units I've been adding recently. To early to know if I've truly fixed though as I ditch the old ACT switches. The ACT switches were on a much older ZWave firmware so hope this turns out to be the cause.
I spent some time pulling down new 3-wire cables to my light switches from the lighting junction boxes as I redecorated each room respectively so I share your pain!
The Fibraro ones support both 2 and 3 wire cabling according to the dimmer installation sheet and even it says possibly CFL's. Personally though I've been replacing these in my house with LED's and they are much better IMHO; instant-on, dimmable and nicer quality light.
Regards
JulianLast edited on Sunday Nov 3rd, 2013 09:13 am by juwi_uk
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| Posted: Sunday Nov 3rd, 2013 09:52 am |
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3rd Post |
Stub
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Devastated to hear you have the same temperamental problems with your Zwave as I'm having with the Ulti. I clearly have some learning to do about all these different types of bulbs as I didn't link CFL to "Compact Fluorescent Lamps" at first, despite writing it out above.
I ended up at LEDHut last night following up on your comments so I may try some twist in bulb replacements to test those out, and a Fibaro unit seems well worth a punt too. I think I skipped over it initially as I was looking for replacement switches like the Vitrum and Ulti units. I wouldn't have a clue how to pulling new cable into my house so just looking for some swap in alternatives really.
I'll go ahead and get a Zwave controller so I can at least try it out.Last edited on Wednesday Jun 25th, 2014 05:56 am by
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| Posted: Sunday Nov 3rd, 2013 10:25 am |
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4th Post |
juwi_uk
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Yes, in my lounge I still have two chandelier light fittings each with CFL candle bulbs in. When I had my ACT Zwave switch driving this it forever locked up and you couldn't turn the lights off (even by powering off/on at the consumer unit). For a while I went back to a physical switch because I couldn't take it any more; the wife ringing me up in "panic mode" that is! 
In the end I placed a Fibraro module behind the physical switch and to date I've not had a single lockup with them.
Yes I know what you mean about the "whole switch unit" setup as that is the ACT scenario. The Fibraro and others like this sit behind the switch for sure but at least you can then pick a standard rocker switch or momentary switch in whatever brand/colour/material you want to fit in with your décor. I looked at the MK stuff too but thought way to expensive for me per unit right now.
One think to remember even if you do stay 2 wire is that the switches/modules all need a deeper back box (35mm) than the traditional box most light switches are fitted with. Just a point to note because even if you leave the wires as-is you still might need to deepen your back boxes.
Happy playing!
JulianLast edited on Sunday Nov 3rd, 2013 10:25 am by juwi_uk
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| Posted: Sunday Nov 3rd, 2013 10:27 am |
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5th Post |
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